By Alexander Britell
And whether you’re hungry or not, you can’t leave Jordans without at least one cake.
Speightstown has long been something of a hidden-away corner of the island, a bit too far north to bask in the glow of the Platinum Coast and tucked just too far past the main coastal road to be easily noticed.
The more than 400-year-old seaport is in the parish of St Peter — and, as almost anyone in this town will affectionately tell you, is the “north,” more country than town.
“This is part of the country,” she says. “So we get the best of everything.”
The main boulevard is a narrow street with three-story buildings straddling it on either side that instantly reminds of New Orleans or the most charming streets in French Caribbean towns like Grand Case and Gustavia.
You’ll immediately learn the history in the Fisherman’s Pub, a beach restaurant that’s been operating on this same sandy spot for 51 years, equal parts rum shop and beach restaurant, a place for flying fish and XO and “sunset lunches.”
At one end there’s the Orange Street Grocer, a gourmet eatery market that serves up pizzas, salads and a selection of fine wines.
At the other end is Juma’s, one of Barbados’ destination restaurants, an eclectically designed second-floor spot with marvelous food like duck curry, rum-infused pate, an inspired art collection and an enviable view of Speightstown’s stretch of sea.
Further down the road you’ll see the Arlington House Museum, a wonderfully preserved early 18th-century house with a range of exhibits on the town’s history, particularly the days when it had such a close trading relationship with Great Britain’s Bristol that it soon earned the moniker “Little Bristol,” a name that now adorns one of the town’s most popular beach bars.
And it’s bookended by a pair of sister luxury resorts: the spectacular Port Ferdinand luxury hotel, home to a superyacht marina and one of just two Nikki Beach outposts in the Caribbean, and the beachfront Saint Peter’s Bay, a classically elegant Barbados beach resort.
“We in the north are good.”